This post also serves as a guide on how to change the parking brake shoes on an BMW E46 3 series 330d. Scroll down to the start of the how-to steps.

There aren't really any gradients round my way, so the handbrake (parking brake) had never really been tested. When I did use it, though, it was evident it wasn't much cop. However, after visiting a friend up north and nearly losing the car when we parked on a hill at some shops, it became a little clearer the parking brake wasn't going to hold anything in place.

When I returned home I had the rear wheel off to familiarise myself with the rear brake set up. Whilst off I measured the rear discs, they came in at 18mm, a full 2mm less than the minimum thickness of 20.4mm. As a result of this I decided that the whole rear brake set up should be replaced and refreshed, the previous owner had obviously never had them changed to accrue such wear.

I will explain the disc and pad replacement in a separate post, as this post will be long enough on it's own.

I did a bit of research on the net for the best brand to go for, which turned out to be Pagid. I went over to Euro Car Parts and picked up a set for £32.40, not too bad at all.





*Please note, this is a guide on how I performed the replacement, not full BMW approved instructions. You should not attempt any work if you are not fully equipped and competent enough to do the job. I will also not be held responsible for any damage caused to your car from incorrectly following this guide.


Tools you will need

  • Jack
  • 10mm long socket
  • 7mm Allen Hex bit socket
  • Allen keys
  • 16mm socket
  • 17mm socket
  • Locking wheel nut bit
  • Torx T40 bit socket
  • Ratchet
  • Flat Head Screwdriver
  • Pliers
  • Wire brush (optional for cleaning)



Step 1

Crack the nuts on the rear wheels whilst the car is on the floor, you will need a 17mm socket and your locking wheel nut tool.


Step 2

Jack the car up and remove both rear wheels. Moving to the inside of the car, pop the handbrake lever gaiter off (it simply unclips with a bit of moderate force) and pull it forward. Using a 10mm long socket, undo both lock nuts until the cable is obviously slack, check by pulling on it.



Tight (left) - Loosened (right)



Step 3

 Please follow steps 1 - 7 in my next post, Rear Brake Discs and Pads Replaced, to see How - To replace the rear discs and pads on an E46 330d. Follow these steps before continuing with this guide.


Step 4

With the rear brake callipers, carriers, and the disc off you should be left looking at the parking brake assembly.



Mine was a lot dirtier than this, but I took a wire brush to it so I could see the assembly more clearly.


Step 5

Using an Allen key (I forget which size) remove the quarter turn spring fixings holding the brake shoes to the hub. Simply turn the fixing 90° and they should just pull out.


Step 6

 With the two spring fixings removed, pull the two brake shoes apart and remove the ratchet. You should now be able to remove the springs holding the two shoes together, you might find using pliers helps. Once you have removed the springs, the brake shoes will come away.


Step 7

The last thing to remove (although it is not necessary to remove) is the connector on the end of the cable. Simply lift one half up and the cable is released.

 You should have now removed all of these parts. I decided to give them all a wire brushing to clean them up.

Before (left) and After (right)



You can also see the shocking state my old brake shoes were in, one side was completely worn right down to the metal, no wonder it wasn't working!




Step 8

Please refer back to the next post, Rear Brake Discs and Pads Replaced, and follow steps 8-10. Then continue with the steps in this guide.


Step 9

 You can now adjust the handbrake. Firstly make sure the disc can spin freely, if it does - carry on. Take a thin flat head screw driver, poke it through one of the wheel nut holes and locate the ratchet of the parking brake assembly. Looking at the disc, the ratchet is about 2 - 3 o' clock on the passenger side, (left hand side) or 10 - 11 o'clock for drivers side (right hand side).

For the drivers side (right hand), turn the ratchet towards the centre of the disc, for the passenger side (left hand) turn it away from the centre. This will make more sense when you are doing it. Adjust the ratchet until you can no longer turn the disc under force.


 Step 10

 When you can no longer spin the disc, stop adjusting the ratchet in that direction, and go the opposite direction 10 teeth/clicks.


Step 11

Replace the rear brake assemblies and the rear wheels. Moving to the inside of the car, pull the handbrake lever several times to seat the cable. From fully dis-engaged pull the handbrake up two clicks. Then tighten the two nuts equally until the rear wheels turn with moderate resistance.


Step 12

 Release the handbrake, then turn the ignition on. The handbrake warning light should come on when the handbrake lever is pulled up one click.

Your handbrake is now adjusted and ready to go, although when first driving the car you should probably bed the new shoes in a bit, there are several suggested ways of doing this which you can find on the net.

Final thing, replace your handbrake lever gaiter, lower the car and re-torque the wheel nuts up to 88lb.ft.